Offers an intimate look at the surfers who challenge the fifty-foot waves of Maverick's surf point in California--all in search of the perfect ride.

Describes how a young boy discovers a magical mantra while surfing with his father in Hawaii. Explains how unusual coincidences can happen due to Littlewood's theory of large numbers. Explores the science behind probabilities in the context of ocean waves.

This book explores how a young boy and his Dad use a magical mantra to entice the ocean to produce surfable waves in Hawaii. It explores Littlewood's Law of Miracles and the theory of large numbers. Fully illustrated with beautiful pictures throughout.

With its massive faces, punishing rocks, and treacherous currents, Maverick's presents a surfing challenge like no other. Author Matt Warshaw has updated his critically acclaimed illustrated history of Maverick's to cover important recent developments, and we've added a fresh new cover to kick this edition off in style. "A fascinating account," to quote Surfer magazine, it takes "a cue from Sebastian Junger's The Perfect Storm...Warshaw focused on a single event...and expands on it to illuminate an entire culture and its world beyond waves." The event was the death of celebrated surfer Mark Foo, one of those who congregate every winter to test themselves in the dark, foreboding waters. And what unfolds in Maverick's is no less than the story of big-wave surfing, from its ancient Hawaiian origins to modern tow-in riders. It's a book to be enjoyed not only by those who surf deep in the waves, but also by those whose taste for adventure is satisfied deep in the pages of a very good book.

Since their emergence in the 1960s, lifestyle sports (also referred to as action sport, extreme sports, adventure sports) have experienced unprecedented growth both in terms of participation and in their increased visibility across public and private space. book seeks to explore the changing representation and consumption of lifestyle sport in the twenty-first century. The essays, which cover a range of sports, and geographical contexts (including Brazil, Europe, North America and Australasia) focus on three themes. First, essays scrutinise aspects of the commercialisation process and impact of the media, reviewing and reconsidering theoretical frameworks to understand these processes. The scholars here emphasise the need to move beyond simplistic understandings of commercialisation as co-option and resistance, to capture the complexity and messiness of the process, and of the relationships between the cultural industries, participants and consumers. The second theme examines gender identity and representations, exploring the potential of lifestyle sport to be a politically transformative space in relation to gender, sexuality and ‘race’. The last theme explores new theoretical directions in research on lifestyle sport, including insights from philosophy, sociology and cultural geography. The themes the monograph addresses are wide reaching, and centrally concerned with the changing meaning of sport and sporting identity in the twenty-first century. This book was previously published as a Special Issue of Sport in Society.

The story of a legendary sporting rivalry chronicles the bitter feud between legendary surfers Ken Bradshaw and Mark Foo, two men whose different approaches to the sport led to a decade-long conflict that would end with Foo's death in a tragic surfing accident in 1994.

Ten Thousand waves is a true story of a surfer who finds spirituality within the passions he has pursued. The book is a east meets west adventure story where the author found his own path by bringing together meditation, prayer, love and appreciation. Giving explanations by using stories from throughout his life.