The central issues discussed in this new collected work in the highly successful ancient textiles series are the relationships between fiber resources and availability on the one hand and the ways those resources were exploited to produce textiles on the other. Technological and economic practices - for example, the strategies by which raw materials were acquired and prepared - in the production of textiles play a major role in the papers collected here. Contributions investigate the beginnings of wool use in western Asia and southeastern Europe. The importance of wool in considerations of early textiles is due to at least two factors. First, both wild as well as some domesticated sheep are characterized by a hairy rather than a woolly coat. This raises the question of when and where woolly sheep emerged, a question that has not up to now been resolvable by genetic or other biological analyses. Second, wool as a fiber has played a major role both economically and socially in both western Asian and European societies from as early as the 3rd millennium BCE in Mesopotamia, and it continues to do so, in different ways, up to the modern day. Despite the importance of wool as a fiber resource contributors demonstrate clearly that its development and use can only be properly addressed in the context of a consideration of other fibers, both plant and animal. Only within a framework that takes into account historically and regionally variable strategies of procurement, processing, and the products of different types of fibers is it possible to gain real insights into the changing roles played by fibers and textiles in the lives of people in different places and times in the past. With relatively rare, albeit sometimes spectacular exceptions, archaeological contexts offer only poor conditions of preservation for textiles. As a result, archaeologists are dependent on indirect or proxy indicators such as textile tools (e.g., loom weights, spindle whorls) and the analysis of faunal remains to explore a range of such proxies and methods by which they may be analyzed and evaluated in order to contribute to an understanding of fiber and textile production and use in the past.

Sustainable Fibres and Textiles provides a whole-lifecycle approach to the subject of sustainable textiles, from fiber production, through manufacturing and low-energy care and recycling. The scientific, industrial, regulatory and social aspects of this lifecycle are explored by an expert author team who bring global perspectives to this important subject. The first part of the book provides detailed coverage of the sustainable production of textiles, with chapters devoted to each of the main fiber types, including new biosynthetic fibers, such as textiles produced from Polylactic Acid (PLA). The second part examines sustainable production methods, focusing on low carbon production technologies and sustainable, low-pollution methods of processing and dyeing fabrics. The final sections explore the benefits of textiles designed to enable low-energy fabric care via both finishes used to treat the fabric and better care labelling. Re-use and recycling options are also covered, as are ethical aspects, such as fair trade fabrics. - Presents an integrated understanding of sustainability through the whole supply-chain – from agriculture, through manufacturing and fabric care, to recycling - Teachers users how to make optimal choices of fiber and manufacturing technologies to achieve the sustainable production of high-quality apparel and other textile products - Provides a wider understanding of emerging regulatory frameworks that will shape the future of sustainable textiles

PREFACE: IN the present volume, dealing with the Chemical Technology of the Textile Fibres except as concerns the dye-stuffs, which will be treated in a separate work, the author has been obliged to con- dense the available matter as much as possible, in order to preserve the form of a text-book. Nevertheless, it seemed necessary, in certain cases, in the interests of the book, to give definite data and an exact description of individual processes. In such instances the details have been gathered exclusively either from the authors personal experience or from reliable sources. The most important part of the book is the chapter treating of dyeing, whilst, on the other hand, the subject of printing had to be dealt with in a more general fashion, the materials being less suitable for treatment in text-book style. The author thinks it desirable to point out that in the present work an attempt has been made to completely separate the chemical and mechanical technology of the subject, a standpoint he considers justified by the extensive area occupied by each of these branches. Hence only a few sketches of apparatus have been given and the methods of dressing the finished goods have been described very briefly, since they almost entirely belong to the domain of mechanical technology. ...GEOEG VON GEOEGIEVICS. Artificial Fibres . Mineral, . Vegetable Cellulose..... Cotton . . . . Bombax Cotton .... Vegetable Silk .... ..... Flax .- . . ..... Hemp Jute Ramie, Rhea, China Grass, Nettle Fibre . Contents include: CHAPTER L THE TEXTILE FIBRES Distinguishing Tests for the Various Fibres Animal Fibres .... Silk . . Animal Hairs . Sheeps Wool . Goat Wool and Camel Wool Artificial Wool Wool Substitutes Conditioning CHAPTER II. WASHING, BLEACHING, CARBONISING Washing and ..... Bleaching Definition Bleaching Agents ... Cotton-Bleaching . . ...... . . . PAGE iii 1 2 2 3 8 12 12 12 16 17 19 20 2-2 23 34 35 45 46 19 50 53 viii CONTENTS Linen-Bleaching . . . Ramie-Bleaching... Hemp-Bleaching... Jute-Bleaching . 76 Scouring and Bleaching Silk 77 Washing and Bleaching Wool ... 80 Blueing or White 86 Dyeing... Carbonising .... 87 CHAPTER III. MORDANTS AND MORDANTING Mordants..... 95 Mordanting Wool . ... 96 Mordanting Silk . . . . . . .98 Mordanting Cotton ....... 99 Alumina Mordants . . . . . . .102 Mordants........ Iron Mordants . . . . . . .,106 ........ Chrome 108 Tin Mordants 112 Copper and other Mordants . . . . . ...... .114 The Fixing Agents Acid Mordants 115 Tannic Acids ... . Oleic Acids . . . PAGE . . . . .116 - . . . . .122 CHAPTER IV. DYEING 1. Theory of Colour Combination of Colours Dyeing to Pattern . . 125 2. Theory of Dyeing . . . . . . 130 3. Classification of Dye-Stuffs Methods of Dyeing . . . ., 138 Application of Acid Dye-Stuffs . . . . Application of Basic v . Dye-Stuffs ., . . .- 143 Application of Direct or Substantive Cotton Dyes...... . Dyes . . 146 Application of the Mordant 154 Dyeing with Cochineal . . . . . .160 Dyeing with Catechu....... 178 Black and Blue Dyeings with Logwood on Wool . . . 163 Turkey-Red Dyeing . .. . -. . .172 Black-Dyeing Cotton with Logwood..... 180 ...

Bast and Other Plant Fibres, a title in Woodhead Publishing's series on fibres published in association with The Textile Institute, UK, is the first book in over 50 years to cover the most interesting plant fibres and those with high annual production. Bast fibres have many textile applications, with natural fibre composites being the fastest growing due to the combination of their relatively low cost and excellent technical characteristics.Following the editor's introductory chapter, which includes a comprehensive set of tables comparing the physical and chemical characteristics of the fibres, Chapter 2 discusses jute while Chapters 3 and 4 cover flax and hemp. Subsequent chapters are devoted to ramie, sisal, coir and abaca. Chapter 9 brings together information on minor fibres that may deserve greater interest on the part of international markets, while Chapter 10 is dedicated to the use of bast and leaf fibres in composites. Information is included on production and processing, physical and chemical properties, and on economic, environmental, and health and safety considerations.This book is an essential reference to academics and researchers in agriculture and horticulture as well as those working in textiles, apparel and industrial design, and textile testing and forensic science laboratories. It will also be invaluable to those working in government departments such as agriculture or trade and industry. - Essential discussion on chemical and physical properties of individual natural fibres - Looks at environmental advantages of bast fibres over synthetic fibres - First book of its kind in over 50 years

This book offers a comprehensive survey of the man-made fibres, including rayons and other natural polymer fibres, and the true synthetic fibres which have made such rapid progress in modern times.

The notion of market power is central to antitrust law. Under EU law, antitrust rules refer to appreciable restrictions of competition (Article 101(1) Treaty on the Functioning of the European Union (TFEU), ex Article 81(1) EC Treaty), the elimination of competition for a substantial part of the market (Article 101 (3) TFEU, ex Article (81(3) EC), dominant positions (Article 10 (2) TFEU, ex Article 82 EC), and substantial impediment to effective competition, in particular by creating or reinforcing a dominant position (Article 2 of the EU Merger Regulation). At first sight, only the concept of dominant position relates to market power, but it is the aim of this book to demonstrate that the other concepts are directly linked to the notion of market power. This is done by reference to the case law of the EU Courts and the precedents of the European Commission. The author goes on to argue that for very good reasons (clarity and enforceability, among others) the rules should be interpreted in this way. Beginning with market definition, the book reviews the different rules and the different degrees of market power they incorporate. Thus it analyses the notion of 'appreciable restriction of competition' to find a moderate market power obtained by agreement among competitors to be the benchmark for the application of Article 101 TFEU, ex Article 81 EC. It moves on to the concept of dominance under Article 102 TFEU (ex Article 82 EC), which is equivalent to substantial (or sgnificant) market power, and then focuses on the old and new tests for EU merger control. Finally, it addresses the idea of elimination of competition in respect of a substantial part of the market (Article 101 (3) TFEU, ex Article 81 (3) (b) EC), in which the last two types of market power (Article 102 TFEU, ex Article 82 EC and EU Merger Regulation) converge. To exemplify this, an in-depth study of the notion of collective dominance is conducted. The book concludes that a paradigm of market power exists under the EU antitrust rules that both fits with past practice and provides for a useful framework of analysis for the general application of the rules by administrative and even more importantly judicial authorities in the Member States, under conditions of legal certainty.

Sustainable Innovations in the Textile Industry addresses advances taking place at every stage of the textile supply chain leading to improvements in sustainability and resource efficiency. There is a significant emphasis on respect for the environment in current thinking around textiles, which contrasts with the impression many have of the industry due to its impact on global pollution over the past century. A key strength of the book is its comprehensive coverage of the complete textile process sequence, including fibre to textile manufacture, dyeing, printing, finishing, and effluent discharge. This holistic approach is required to effectively address the sustainability issue, which is requires action across the supply chain. In addition, it also provides the latest industry knowledge on technological advances in knitting, non-wovens, speciality chemicals, coating, printing, finishing and other methods that increase sustainability. Including historical aspects of sustainability in textiles as well as the state of the art in innovative sustainable fibers and manufacturing processes, this book is essential reading for anyone interested in sustainable directions in the textile industry. - Emphasizes innovative production technologies, the biotransformation of the textile industry, the circular economy, recycling, and the green future of textiles - Addresses sustainability in business and logistics, explaining how these functions influence the environmental impact of other stages of the value chain - Provides a guide to the eco-labels and assessment methods used by industry