Fashion design is increasingly gaining attention as an important form of cultural expression. However, scholarship has largely focused on specific designers and their finished products. This collection reveals the crucial foundational art and craft of patternmaking design, with essays that explore the practice in specific historical and cultural contexts. Probing the theoretical underpinnings that inform patternmaking, Patternmaking History and Theory interrogates topics that span cultures and time periods, ranging from high fashion to home sewing. Taking the reader from women's making and mending for victory during World War Two, to Jamaican dress history and today's complex 3D pattern cutting software, the book examines the creative aspect of a culturally rich skill. Beautifully illustrated and rooted in original research, Patternmaking History and Theory brings together a group of leading international scholars to provide a range of perspectives on a key but often overlooked aspect of design.

Fashion design is increasingly gaining attention as an important form of cultural expression. However, scholarship has largely focused on specific designers and their finished products. This collection reveals the crucial foundational art and craft of patternmaking design, with essays that explore the practice in specific historical and cultural contexts. Probing the theoretical underpinnings that inform patternmaking, Patternmaking History and Theory interrogates topics that span cultures and time periods, ranging from high fashion to home sewing. Taking the reader from women's making and mending for victory during World War Two, to Jamaican dress history and today's complex 3D pattern cutting software, the book examines the creative aspect of a culturally rich skill. Beautifully illustrated and rooted in original research, Patternmaking History and Theory brings together a group of leading international scholars to provide a range of perspectives on a key but often overlooked aspect of design.

This vintage book contains a comprehensive textbook for clothing designers, teachers of clothing technology, and senior students. With detailed diagrams and a wealth of useful and interesting information, this timeless handbook is highly recommended for those with an interest in fashion and design, and would make for a worthy addition to collections of related literature. Contents include: “The Human Body”, “Physical Proportions”, “The Sizing of Garments”, “Size and Movement”, “The Garment Pattern”, “Garment Balance”, “Measurement”, “Applying The Measurements to the Pattern”, “Garment Shape”, “The Designing of Speciality Garments”, and “The Grading of Patterns”. Many vintage books such as this are becoming increasingly scarce and expensive. We are republishing this volume now in an affordable, high-quality edition complete with a specially commissioned new introduction on embroidery.

Summary: "The perfect introduction to the core principles of garment construction, "How Patterns Work" simplifies and explains the relationship between pattern making and the body." -- Back cover.

Fashion designers are presented with a range of methods and concepts for pattern cutting are presented, the main body of these methods, both traditional and contemporary, is predominately based on a theoretical approximation of the body that is derived from horizontal and vertical measurements of the body in an upright position: the tailoring matrix. As a consequence, there is a lack of interactive and dynamic qualities in methods connected to this paradigm of garment construction, from both expressional and functional perspectives. This work proposes and explores an alternative paradigm for pattern cutting that includes a new theoretical approximation of the body as well as a more kinetic method for garment construction that, unlike the prevalent theory and its related methods, takes as its point of origin the interaction between the anisotropic fabric and the biomechanical structure of the body. As such, the research conducted here is basic research, aiming to identify fundamental principles for garment construction. Based on some key principles found in the works of Geneviève Sevin-Doering and in pre-tailoring methods for constructing garments, the proposed theory for – and method of – garment construction was developed through concrete experiments by cutting and draping fabrics on live models. Instead of a static matrix of a non-moving body, the result is a kinetic construction theory of the body that is comprised of balance directions and key biomechanical points, along with an alternative draping method for dressmaking. This methodology challenges the fundamental relationship between dress, garment construction, and the body, working from the body outward, as opposed to the methods that are based on the prevalent paradigm of the tailoring matrix, which work from the outside toward the body. This alternative theory for understanding the body and the proposed method of working allows for diverse expressions and enhanced functional possibilities in dress.

Sewing patterns have been the principle blueprint for making garments in the home for centuries. From their origins in the tailoring manuals of the 16th century to the widely produced pamphlets of the 18th and 19th centuries, through to the full size packet patterns of today, their history and development has reflected major changes in technology (such as the advent of the sewing machine), retailing and marketing practices (the fashion periodical), and shifts in social and cultural influences. This accessible book explores this history, outlining innovations in patternmaking by the companies who produced patterns and how these reflected the fashions and demands of the market. Showcasing beautiful illustrations from original pattern pamphlets, packets and ads, as well as 9 complete patterns from which readers can reproduce vintage garments of different eras, the book provides a unique visual guide to homemade fashions as well as essential exploration of the industry that produced them.