Under the New Order regime (1967-98), the Indonesian military sought to monopolise the production of official history and control its contents. The goal was to validate the political role of the armed forces, condemn communism and promote military values. A detailed examination of the Indonesian military's image-making under Suharto.

What's a djibbah, how long has the old school tie been around and do yellow petticoats really repel vermin? How have social and educational changes affected the appearance of schoolchildren? This book will provide answers to these questions and more, in an engaging foray into 500 years of British school uniform history from the charity schools of the sixteenth century through the Victorian public schools to the present day. In this cross-disciplinary work, Kate Stephenson presents the first comprehensive academic study of school uniform development in Britain as well as offering an analysis of the social and institutional contexts in which this development occurred. With recent debates around the cost, necessity and religious implications of school uniform and its (re)introduction and increasingly formal appearance in many schools, this book is a timely reminder that modern ideas associated with school uniform are the result of a long history of communicating (and disguising) identity.

Uniform: Clothing and Discipline in the Modern World examines the role uniform plays in public life and private experience. This volume explores the social, political, economic, and cultural significance of various kinds of uniforms to consider how they embody gender, class, sexuality, race, nationality, and belief. From the pageantry of uniformed citizens to the rationalizing of time and labour, this category of dress has enabled distinct forms of social organization, sometimes repressive, sometimes utopian. With thematic sections on the social meaning of uniform in the military, in institutions, and political movements, its use in fashion, in the workplace, and at leisure, a series of case studies consider what sartorial uniformity means to the history of the body and society. Ranging from English public school uniform to sacred dress in the Vatican, from Australian airline uniforms to the garb worn by soldiers in combat, Uniform draws attention to a visual and material practice with the power to regulate or disrupt civil society. Bringing together original research from emerging and established academics, this book is essential reading for students and scholars of fashion, design, art, popular culture, anthropology, cultural history, and sociology, as well as anyone interested in what constitutes a "modern" appearance.

The richly illustrated book is the first part of a series on the history of uniform. This particular installment is an historical treatise on the origins, development and diffusion of the Death's Head badge among military units throughout the Western World, from the 17th century onward. It describes the different occurrences of this potent symbol and tries to shed some light on the reasons and motivations involved in the choice and implementation of so charged an image as the skull and crossbones. It tries to attenuate some of the justified aversion incurred since the Second World War and the use the Nazis made of the emblem, as it delves into the noble and honorable motives usually associated with the struggle against oppression, connected to the Death's Head during the nineteenth century. The sheer number of occurrences documented and illustrated (101) in the book is enough to generate some astonishment and will surely spark the curiosity of the reader. Most people are not aware of the use of skulls by any military unit other than the SS, let alone its employment by such irreproachable regiments as the Queens Royal Lancers. Even those interested in military history will probably not have realized the measure of proliferation the Skull & Bones badge has known nor the significance attached to it. A few of the instances I have discovered in my research will generate some interest as well, as these were not yet widely known or put together in a extensive study. For example, until now, the oldest known use of the emblem was usually attributed to the Prussian Von Ruesch hussars of 1741. I have been able to push back this date by a hundred years with my ‘discovery’ of the Von Menzel Pandurs and especially the Cronberg Cuirassiers of the Thirty Years War. Another point of interest is the depiction of many colorful and sometimes even extravagant uniforms of irregular units or even individual officers. For instance the attire of the (in)famous Baron de Géramb of 1810 stands out, but also the somewhat theatrical outfit of Josef Zienkowics of 1830, is of particular interest to uniformologists and historians of fashion alike. As the image of the skull and bones gains popularity among the numerous adherents of countless subcultural lifestyles, the interest in the subject also grows significantly outside the more usual circles of militaria buffs. Other proposed titles in this series: • The Sense of Uniform, Why are armies in uniform? • The Origins • The Fringe, Cords, ribbons and plumes • Headgear • Fashion, How do uniforms and civilian fashions interact? • Cavalry • Infantry • Guards • Navy and Marines

Science in Uniform, Uniforms in Science: Historical Studies of American Military and Scientific Interactions is a collection of essays, which owes its existence to the fortuitous conjunction of two events. The first was a temporary exhibition at the Smithsonian's National Museum of American History in Washington that opened in October 2002, entitled "West Point in the Making of America, 1802-1918." Sponsored by the U.S. Army, it commemorated the bicentennial of the U.S. Military Academy at West Point. Rather than recount the academy's history, however, this exhibit focused on the lives and work of a select group of West Point graduates, some famous, others less well known, in the context of American national development from the beginning of the 19th century through the First World War. One of the exhibit's central themes was the significant part West Pointers played in the creation of American science and engineering. An extraordinary display of objects, such as natural history specimens sent by antebellum soldier-explorers in the West to the newly formed Smithsonian Institution, augmented the biographical narratives with visual and material historical evidence. Sixteen months later, in January 2004, the annual meeting of the American Historical Association came to the same city. The AHA seemed to offer a perfect venue for the exhibit's final public program, a symposium on the historic links between America's armed forces and the development of American science and technology. Not all those who participated in the symposium were able to prepare articles for this volume, but this book nonetheless represents an impressive cross-section of work being done on an important but too often overlooked aspect of American history.

This first and only in-depth analysis of the attire worn by the largest workforce in the health care system explores the role of the nurse's uniform in creating nursing identity for over a hundred years. The introduction of the nurse's uniform in the late nineteenth century was part of a strategy to legitimize North America's first nursing schools. At first varied and experimental in design, by the early 20th century the uniform was drawing on elements of fashionable, scientific, military and ecclesiastical wear, and had standardized into a blue or pink dress worn with stiffly starched white cap, bib, and apron. This remarkable outfit lasted until the 1970s, when educational and societal changes brought about its demise, and practical scrubs became the most common nursing apparel. Seen through the lens of age, gender, class and race, this book shows how the uniform was an active participant in the changing culture of nursing work and thought. Richly illustrated with images of actual garments and over 150 compelling period photographs, cartoons and drawings, the book explore the uniform within the contexts of hospital, community, nursing school, and residence. A Cultural History of the Nurse's Uniform will appeal to nurses, historians and scholars of dress.

In this new book, the development of an altogether new uniform for troops of the United States Army, a few years after the Civil War, has never been told so well or so comprehensively. In this volume, the sequel to the authors highly praised Army Blue: The Uniform of Uncle Sams Regulars, 1848-1873, John Langellier continues the story of the evolution of American army uniforms during a critical period that saw experimentation and innovation finally surmount conservatism to produce some of the more practically functional and aesthetically appealing martial clothing in American history. The breadth of Langelliers research, coupled with his years of accumulated expertise in the study of historical army uniforms, is evident throughout, and together make this book the most thorough and precise accounting the topic has ever received.