Indonesian fashion has undergone a period of rapid growth over the last three decades. This book explores how through years of social, political, and cultural upheaval, the country's fashion has moved away from “colonial fashion” and “national dress” to claim its own distinct identity as contemporary fashion in a global world. With specific reference to women's wear, Contemporary Indonesian Fashion explores the diversity and complexity of the country's sartorial offerings, which weave together local textile traditions like batik and ikat-making with contemporary narratives. The book questions concepts of “tradition” and “modernity” in the developing world, taking stock of the elite consumption of luxury brands and the large-scale manufacturing of fast fashion, and introduces us to the rise of new trends such as busana muslim (or “modest wear”), creating a portrait of a vibrant and growing national and, increasingly, international, industry. Exploring clothing in shopping malls, on the catwalk, in magazines, and online, the book examines how Indonesian fashion is made, presented, and consumed, combining research in Indonesia with analysis and personal reflection. Contemporary Indonesian Fashion ultimately questions the deeply entrenched eurocentrism of "global fashion", simultaneously interrogating current homogenizing beauty and body image discourses posited as universal, by pointing to absences, silences, and erasures as reflected by contemporary Indonesian fashion- hence the "looking glass" of the title. Aptly illustrated, the book offers a new perspective on a rapidly developing new fashion capital, Jakarta.

Indonesian fashion has undergone a period of rapid growth over the last three decades. This book explores how through years of social, political, and cultural upheaval, the country's fashion has moved away from “colonial fashion” and “national dress” to claim its own distinct identity as contemporary fashion in a global world. With specific reference to women's wear, Contemporary Indonesian Fashion explores the diversity and complexity of the country's sartorial offerings, which weave together local textile traditions like batik and ikat-making with contemporary narratives. The book questions concepts of “tradition” and “modernity” in the developing world, taking stock of the elite consumption of luxury brands and the large-scale manufacturing of fast fashion, and introduces us to the rise of new trends such as busana muslim (or “modest wear”), creating a portrait of a vibrant and growing national and, increasingly, international, industry. Exploring clothing in shopping malls, on the catwalk, in magazines, and online, the book examines how Indonesian fashion is made, presented, and consumed, combining research in Indonesia with analysis and personal reflection. Contemporary Indonesian Fashion ultimately questions the deeply entrenched eurocentrism of "global fashion", simultaneously interrogating current homogenizing beauty and body image discourses posited as universal, by pointing to absences, silences, and erasures as reflected by contemporary Indonesian fashion- hence the "looking glass" of the title. Aptly illustrated, the book offers a new perspective on a rapidly developing new fashion capital, Jakarta.

Face veiling is relatively new in Indonesia. It is often stereotyped as a sign of extremism and the growing Arabisation of Indonesian Muslims. It is also perceived as a symbol that demonstrates a lack of female agency. However, increasing numbers of women are choosing to wear the cadar (the full face veil). This book provides an ethnographic study of these women: why they choose to wear the cadar, embody strict religious disciplinary practices and the consequences of that choice. The women in this book belong to two Islamic revivalist movements: various Salafi groups and the Tablīghī Jamāʿat. Indonesia has constantly witnessed transformations in the meanings and practices of Islam, and this book demonstrates that women are key actors in this process. Nisa demonstrates that contrary to stereotypes, the women in this study have an agency which is expressed through their chosen docility and obedience.

The youth demographic is a large and growing cohort in Indonesia, and adolescents embody the currents of social change. Throughout the twentieth century they were significant agents of social protest leading to social and political transformation. This book looks at the importance of adolescents in contemporary Indonesia, and how they are spearheading not just globalisation and a growing consumer youth culture, but also the Islamisation movement. The book explores both the inner worlds and social selves of Indonesian adolescents. It presents an in-depth knowledge of Indonesian society and culture in various parts of Indonesia, and discusses national patterns and trends. Grounded in two field sites, the book enables an analysis of young people’s local ethnic and religious identities and their commitment to the Indonesian nation-state. It goes on to look at the physical age bracket of youth, the definitions used by the Indonesian state and other agencies, and the perceptions of youth themselves about adolescence and adulthood. Providing a comprehensive study of young people in contemporary Indonesia, the book addresses gender relations, the importance of education for youth and youth engagement with popular culture, and the moral issue concerning the sexual propriety of young people. It is a useful contribution for students and academics of Asian Studies, Sociology and Cultural Studies.

Who says you can’t be pious and fashionable? Throughout the Muslim world, women have found creative ways of expressing their personality through the way they dress. Headscarves can be modest or bold, while brand-name clothing and accessories are part of a multimillion-dollar ready-to-wear industry that caters to pious fashion from head to toe. In this lively snapshot, Liz Bucar takes us to Iran, Turkey, and Indonesia and finds a dynamic world of fashion, faith, and style. “Brings out both the sensuality and pleasure of sartorial experimentation.” —Times Literary Supplement “I defy anyone not to be beguiled by [Bucar’s] generous-hearted yet penetrating observation of pious fashion in Indonesia, Turkey and Iran... Bucar uses interviews with consumers, designers, retailers and journalists...to examine the presumptions that modest dressing can’t be fashionable, and fashion can’t be faithful.” —Times Higher Education “Bucar disabuses readers of any preconceived ideas that women who adhere to an aesthetic of modesty are unfashionable or frumpy.” —Robin Givhan, Washington Post “A smart, eye-opening guide to the creative sartorial practices of young Muslim women... Bucar’s lively narrative illuminates fashion choices, moral aspirations, and social struggles that will unsettle those who prefer to stereotype than inform themselves about women’s everyday lives in the fast-changing, diverse societies that constitute the Muslim world.” —Lila Abu-Lughod, author of Do Muslim Women Need Saving?

Indonesian Islam is an important and timely book based on approximately 2,000 fatwâ (pl. fatâwâ)--an opinion on a point of law or dogma given by a person with recognized authority (ijâza)--demonstrating that classical Islamic reasoning is an alternative to state-defined Islam and is capable of dealing with contemporary challenges in ethics and morality in a consistent and rational way. The book provides a comprehensive survey of how modern Indonesian Islamic thinking has responded to changes in social practices since the 1920s, and how authorities have ruled on diverse subjects ranging from football pools to land sales and milk banks. The author examines in detail the development and nuances of Islamic thinking, both by reference to local tradition and comparatively, by reference to the classical Arabian texts, therefore providing an important contribution to deepening popular understanding of Islam in Indonesia. The author's detailed analysis of fatwâ is unprecedented in the study of Indonesian Islam. To date there is no comparable analysis of modern fatwâ available in book form anywhere in the world, making this volume an invaluable resource for anyone who studies Indonesia. Professor Hooker describes the fatwâ as method and doctrine, religious duty, the status and obligation of women, Islam and medical science, offences against religion, and issues specific to Indonesian Islam. Responses to fatwâ cover such contemporary issues as abortion, organ transplants, insurance, and the status of women. For sale in Asia, Australia, and New Zealand by NUS Press (Singapore)