Process-based morphodynamic modelling is one of the relatively new tools at the disposal of coastal scientists, engineers and managers. On paper, it offers the possibility to analyse morphological processes and to investigate the effects of various measures one might consider to alleviate some problems. For these to be applied in practice, a model should be relatively straightforward to set up. It should be accurate enough to represent the details of interest, it should run long enough and robustly to see the real effects happen, and the physical processes represented in such a way that the sediment generally goes in the right direction at the right rate. Next, practitioners must be able to judge if the patterns and outcomes of the model are realistic and finally, translate these colour pictures and vector plots to integrated parameters that are relevant to the client or end user. In a nutshell, this book provides an in-depth review of ways to model coastal processes, including many hands-on exercises.

The handbook contains a comprehensive compilation of topics that are at the forefront of many of the technical advances in ocean waves, coastal, and ocean engineering. More than 110 internationally recognized authorities in the field of coastal and ocean engineering have contributed articles in their areas of expertise to this handbook. These international luminaries are from highly respected universities and renowned research and consulting organizations around the world.

This handbook is the definitive reference for the interdisciplinary field that is ocean engineering. It integrates the coverage of fundamental and applied material and encompasses a diverse spectrum of systems, concepts and operations in the maritime environment, as well as providing a comprehensive update on contemporary, leading-edge ocean technologies. Coverage includes an overview on the fundamentals of ocean science, ocean signals and instrumentation, coastal structures, developments in ocean energy technologies and ocean vehicles and automation. It aims at practitioners in a range of offshore industries and naval establishments as well as academic researchers and graduate students in ocean, coastal, offshore and marine engineering and naval architecture. The Springer Handbook of Ocean Engineering is organized in five parts: Part A: Fundamentals, Part B: Autonomous Ocean Vehicles, Subsystems and Control, Part C: Coastal Design, Part D: Offshore Technologies, Part E: Energy Conversion

This book is a collection of extended papers based on presentations given during the ICEC 2018 conference, held in Caen, France, in August 2018. It explores both the limitations and advantages of current models, and highlights the latest developments concerning new numerical schemes, high-performance computing, multi-physics and multi-scale methods, and better interaction with field or scale model data. Accordingly, it addresses the interests of practitioners, stakeholders, researchers, and engineers active in this field.

This book deals with the relationship between geomorphology and society. This topic has had rather scant treatment in the literature except to some extent under the label “applied geomorphology”. In this text the authors aim to bring together conceptual issues and case studies of how geomorphology influences society and, indeed, how society is in turn influenced by geomorphology. In an age in which the influence of human activities on global environments has become so paramount that it is increasingly common to refer to it geologically as the “anthropocene”, the book aims to reflect on the geomorphological significance of widespread and diverse forms of human impact in a range of environmental settings.

Laboratory physical models are a valuable tool for coastal engineers. Physical models help us to understand the complex hydrodynamic processes occurring in the nearshore zone and they provide reliable and economic engineering design solutions.This book is about the art and science of physical modeling as applied in coastal engineering. The aim of the book is to consolidate and synthesize into a single text much of the knowledge about physical modeling that has been developed worldwide.This book was written to serve as a graduate-level text for a course in physical modeling or as a reference text for engineers and researchers engaged in physical modeling and laboratory experimentation. The first three chapters serve as an introduction to similitude and physical models, covering topics such as advantages and disadvantages of physical models, systems of units, dimensional analysis, types of similitude and various hydraulic similitude criteria applicable to coastal engineering models.Practical application of similitude principles to coastal engineering studies is covered in Chapter 4 (Hydrodynamic Models), Chapter 5 (Coastal Structure Models) and Chapter 6 (Sediment Transport Models). These chapters develop the appropriate similitude criteria, discuss inherent laboratory and scale effects and overview the technical literature pertaining to these types of models. The final two chapters focus on the related subjects of laboratory wave generation (Chapter 7) and measurement and analysis techniques (Chapter 8).

The evolution and utilization of estuarine and coastal regions are greatly restricted by sediment problems. This thesis aims to better understand fine sediment transport under combined action of waves and currents, especially in the wave-current bottom boundary layer (BBL). Field observations, experimental data analysis, theoretical analysis and numerical models are employed. Silt-dominated sediments are sensitive to flow dynamics and the suspended sediment concentration (SSC) increase rapidly under strong flow dynamics. This research unveils several fundamental aspects of silty sediment, i.e., the criterion of the incipient motion, the SSC profiles and their phase-averaged parameterization in wave-dominated conditions. An expression for sediment incipient motion is proposed for silt-sand sediment under combined wave and current conditions. A process based intra-wave 1DV model for flow-sediment dynamics near the bed is developed in combined wave-current conditions. The high concentration layer (HCL) was simulated and sensitivity analysis was carried out by the 1DV model on factors that impact the SSC in the HCL. Finally, based on the 1DV model, the formulations of the mean SSC profile of silt-sand sediments in wave conditions were proposed. The developed approaches are expected to be applied in engineering practice and further simulation.