It was customary for the wife of a nobleman in eighteenth-century Spain to be courted fervently and seemingly forever, by a man who was not her husband. This liaison, accepted and even encouraged by the husband, was presumably platonic, though that may not always have been the case. It was carried on according to a complex, if ambiguous, code of companionship and whispered conversation. With the help of a lively blend of archival documents and literary sources, Carmen Martín Gaite admits us to the intricacies of the code and unravels its significance for the women who enjoyed the attention of a cortejo, or escort. Why was the cortejo tolerated, by society and by the woman's aristocratic family, even though it infringed traditional religious precepts? What did woman and her friend talk about at such length? Was their flirtation intellectual, reflecting the effects of Enlightenment rationalism on Spanish culture? Letters, memoirs, and travel journals as well as dramatic works of the period offer invaluable clues to the nature of these relationships, in which the woman was almost ritually adored and placed on a pedestal. The conversation, we learn, was generally frivolous, focusing on possessions and luxuries in a way that clearly signals economic change and the dawn of a material age. At the same time, the cortejo did represent a taste of symbolic liberation for women whose social lives were rigidly constrained. Clarifying details from a great variety of historical sources are presented with the urgency and fluidity of a novel in this excellent English translation -- Book jacket.

This is the first global history of dress regulation and its place in broader debates around how human life and societies should be visualised and materialised. Sumptuary laws were a tool on the part of states to regulate not only manufacturing systems and moral economies via the medium of expenditure and consumption of clothing but also banquets, festivities and funerals. Leading scholars on Asian, Latin American, Ottoman and European history shed new light on how and why items of dress became key aspirational goods across society, how they were lobbied for and marketed, and whether or not sumptuary laws were implemented by cities, states and empires to restrict or channel trade and consumption. Their findings reveal the significance of sumptuary laws in medieval and early modern societies as a site of contestation between individuals and states and how dress as an expression of identity developed as a modern 'human right'.

This book explores the popular and elite debates over the creation of a two-sex model of human bodies in eighteenth-century Spain.

Eighteenth-century debates continue to set the terms of modern day discussions on how 'nature and nurture' shape sex and gender. Current dialogues - from the tension between 'real' and 'ideal' bodies, to how nature and society shape sexual difference - date back to the early modern period. Debating Sex and Gender is an innovative study of the creation of a two-sex model of human sexuality based on different genitalia within Spain, reflecting the enlightened quest to promote social reproduction and stability. Drawing on primary sources such as medical treatises and legal literature, Vicente traces the lives of individuals whose ambiguous sex and gender made them examples for physicians, legislators and educators for how nature, family upbringing, education, and the social environment shaped an individual's sex. This book brings together insights from the histories of sexuality, medicine and the law to shed new light on this timely and important field of study.