Beaches in Japan have been eroding since the 1970s because of artificial land alterations and unsustainable coastal development. Almost all causes of the beach erosion in Japan are due to anthropogenic factors — as a result of human activity. This book presents the state of the beaches throughout Japan, looking at the current reality and the classification of causes of beach erosion using real-life, illustrated examples. It then goes on to look at practical models which can be used to predict changes to different types of beaches, and concludes with investigation of beach erosion as a wider structural problem. Lessons learnt show the manner in which excessive coastal development without clearly identified measures for beach protection can have widespread global ramifications.This second edition presents new findings from field studies carried out on Japanese beaches, along with the development and improvement of the numerical model presented previously. In addition to the first edition, six new examples of the beach erosion in Japan are included, as is new analysis of the BG model (a model for predicting based on Bagnold's concept), which can be applicable to various field problems.Originally published in Japanese (2004), this updated version gives clear practical guidance to coastal engineers working to prevent irreversible beach erosion and sustainable coastal development policy.

Beaches in Japan have been eroding since the 1970s as a result of the artificial land alterations. Approximately 3000 fishing ports and 1000 commercial ports have been built nationwide, as well as 2532 large dams being constructed in the upstream basins of large rivers. Due to the port and dam developments, fluvial sand supply has significantly reduced resulting in shoreline recession around the river mouths. Continuous sand supply along the coastline has also been obstructed by the port breakwaters. The formation of wave shelter zone by the port breakwaters induce longshore sand transport, thereby leading to an accretion of large amount of sand in the wave shelter zone and erosion in the surrounding area. Thus, almost all causes of the beach erosion in Japan are due to anthropogenic factors. The exact situation of the beach erosion has never been clear in literatures that are written in Japanese, or in English. Coastal engineers can and should learn from these results, otherwise the same situation and problems, which were induced by excessive coastal development without protection measures and due attention given to nearby coasts, will recur throughout the world.Textbooks on coastal engineering, that were already published, describe only the theoretical fundamentals of the subject, but lack the practical perspectives and field studies. The book examines many coastal areas as examples, highlighting the various erosion factors which should be avoided elsewhere globally. This book was first published in Japanese in 2004, and was translated into English by the present author.

Beaches in Japan have been eroding since the 1970s as a result of the artificial land alterations. Approximately 3000 fishing ports and 1000 commercial ports have been built nationwide, as well as 2532 large dams being constructed in the upstream basins of large rivers. Due to the port and dam developments, fluvial sand supply has significantly reduced resulting in shoreline recession around the river mouths. Continuous sand supply along the coastline has also been obstructed by the port breakwaters. The formation of wave shelter zone by the port breakwaters induce longshore sand transport, thereby leading to an accretion of large amount of sand in the wave shelter zone and erosion in the surrounding area. Thus, almost all causes of the beach erosion in Japan are due to anthropogenic factors. The exact situation of the beach erosion has never been clear in literatures that are written in Japanese, or in English. Coastal engineers can and should learn from these results, otherwise the same situation and problems, which were induced by excessive coastal development without protection measures and due attention given to nearby coasts, will recur throughout the world.Textbooks on coastal engineering, that were already published, describe only the theoretical fundamentals of the subject, but lack the practical perspectives and field studies. The book examines many coastal areas as examples, highlighting the various erosion factors which should be avoided elsewhere globally. This book was first published in Japanese in 2004, and was translated into English by the present author.

New Edition: Ocean Surface Waves: Their Physics and Prediction (3rd Edition)The book is an extended and updated edition of the book published in 1996 under the same title (World Scientific, ISBN 9810216866). It contains a very comprehensive and extensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, earthquakes and possible landslides and asteroids impacts. The basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of the various wave parameters and extended application in ocean and coastal engineering, are discussed from the stochastic point of view.All chapters were completely rewritten and supplemented with many new discoveries which were published since the first edition in 1996. In particular, new chapters are added on very interesting and contemporary topics such as: wave breaking mechanisms in deep- and shallow water, freak waves, tsunami, water circulation in porous sea bottom induced by surface waves, and waves propagation through mangrove forests.In terms of numerical modeling, the state of the art of the modern methodology of wave prediction models WAM and SWAN, as well as of the high sophisticated satellite methods of waves measurement and modern methods of signal processing, including wavelets approach and Hilbert Transform approach are presented. The book is supplemented with an extended list of relevant and extended, contemporary bibliography, subject index and author index.

This book is based on the author's 49 years of experience as a practicing coastal engineer and 34 years as professor of coastal engineering and management at Queen's University. The book is therefore thoroughly practical in nature, but it also reflects newly relevant issues, such as consequences of failure, impacts of rising sea levels, aging infrastructure, real estate development, and contemporary decision making, design and education.This textbook is useful for undergraduate students, postgraduate students and practicing engineers. It covers waves, structures, sediment movement, coastal management, and contemporary coastal design and decision making. It presents both basic principles and engineering solutions. It discusses the traditional methods of analysis and synthesis (design), but also contemporary design methodologies, such as working with environmental impacts.The second edition expanded greatly on the topics of failure and resilience that surfaced as a result of recent disasters from hurricane surges and tsunamis. It updated the discussion of design and decision making for the 21st century, with many new examples.This third edition develops some of these topics further, but its largest new changes is the chapter on climate change. This chapter presents the basics of climate change and then goes on to stress the practical implications of the impacts of climate change, focusing on what is of importance to coastal and fluvial specialists.

This book is an extended and substantially updated edition of the previous book editions published in 1996 and 2013 under the same title. The 3rd edition is a one-volume, modern and comprehensive overview of the current knowledge of regular and random ocean surface waves in deep waters and in coastal zones.Since the previous editions many new theoretical advances have been made in the physical understanding and analytical and numerical treatment of various ocean wave problems. The revisions and supplements demanded by these advances have been substantial, therefore the scope of the book has been extended by adding a new chapter and substantially supplementing others.All chapters of the book have been rewritten to include and describe in detail many new discoveries made since the completion of the previous editions. In this 3rd edition a comprehensive and updated overview of the fundamentals of the regular wave mechanics, as well as the spectral and statistical properties of random waves are given. Except for the updated chapters dedicated to tsunami and extreme waves, a new chapter dealing with other types of impulsive waves starting from rest, are also included.The air-sea interaction processes as well as the last improvements in ocean wave modelling and presently available wave prediction models (WAM, WAVEWATCH III, UMWM, NEMO) are thoroughly discussed and their applications are demonstrated. The review of the present ocean observation methods encompasses the modern sea-truthing, as well as applications of data from presently operating marine satellites.In this revised edition, chapters on the behavior of surface waves in the vegetated environments such as coral reef, mangrove forest, seaweed and seagrass areas are substantially extended and updated to include the last discoveries.The explanations in the book are self-contained and detailed enough to capture the interest of the potential readers and to prompt them to explore the research literature. The list of rapidly growing number of the recent papers on the ocean waves has been extended substantially, up to about 900 titles.

This book set is a revised version of the 2005 edition of Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves. It presents theoretical topics on ocean wave dynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal and offshore engineering as well as coastal oceanography. Advanced analytical and numerical techniques are demonstrated. In this revised version, five chapters on recent developments in linear and nonlinear aspects have been added. The first is on detailed analyses in Wave/Structure Interactions. The second is a new section on Waves through a Marine Forest, a topic motivated by its possible relevance to tsunami reduction. The third is on Long Waves in Shallow Water and the fourth is an update on Broad-Banded Nonlinear Surface Waves in the Open Sea to include new findings in this topic. The fifth is an expanded chapter on Numerical Simulation of Nonlinear Wave Dynamics to include predictions of nonlinear spectral evolution and rogue wave occurrence and dynamics using large-scale phase-resolved simulations. This revised version also includes recent developments in precorrected-FFT accelerated O(N log N) low- and high-order boundary element methods for the computation of fully nonlinear wave-wave and wave-body interactions.Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves (2016) will be invaluable for graduate students and researchers in coastal and ocean engineering, geophysical fluid dynamicists interested in water waves, and theoretical scientists and applied mathematicians wishing to develop new techniques for challenging problems or to apply techniques existing elsewhere.