The book provides a comprehensive and up-to-date overview of the physical processes which, according to the present state of knowledge, determine the evolution of coastal systems and their response to human interventions. This response depends to a large degree on the self-organising properties of coastal dynamics, which form a leading theme throughout the book. The basic theoretical ideas are explained in text and figures and also in formulas for the more mathematically inclined reader. Theories are illustrated with examples from estuaries, coastal lagoons, beaches and tidal flat systems from all over the world. The rules and simple models can be used directly without relying on complex computations; much attention is given to the strengths and weaknesses of the underlying theories and their limits of applicability. The book is fully self-contained; some knowledge of basic physics and mathematics is recommended. The book is an upgrade of the first edition. Most parts are rewritten and chapters are added to incorporate research results, new insight and experience of the past ten years. This book is intended for everyone interested in coastal systems for professional or educational reasons.

Where oceans, land and atmosphere meet, three dynamic forces contribute to the physical and ecological evolution of coastlines. Coasts are responsive systems, dynamic with identifiable inputs and outputs of energy and material. In chapters illustrated and furnished with topical case studies from around the world, this book establishes the importance of coasts within a systems framework - waves, tides, rivers and sea-level change all play critical roles in the evolution of our coasts.

Textbook for graduate students and an introduction for researchers to coastal basins through simple hydrodynamics.

Coastal wetlands are under a great deal of pressure from the dual forces of rising sea level and the intervention of human populations both along the estuary and in the river catchment. Direct impacts include the destruction or degradation of wetlands from land reclamation and infrastructures. Indirect impacts derive from the discharge of pollutants, changes in river flows and sediment supplies, land clearing, and dam operations. As sea level rises, coastal wetlands in most areas of the world migrate landward to occupy former uplands. The competition of these lands from human development is intensifying, making the landward migration impossible in many cases. This book provides an understanding of the functioning of coastal ecosystems and the ecological services that they provide, and suggestions for their management. In this book a CD is included containing color figures of wetlands and estuaries in different parts of the world. - Includes a CD containing color figures of wetlands and estuaries in different parts of the world.

This monograph presents the state of art of the geologic knowledge about the Spanish coast obtained through scientific research in the last 30 years.From a general point of view, coasts are the most quickly changing systems of the Earth. This is critical, since many human resources, such as the main part of economic and social activities, are located in the coastal areas. Especially in the case of Spain these coasts include cities, wide industrial areas (including harbor complexes), important ecologic systems, and our main economic resource: tourism. Understanding the dynamic functioning of each element of this coast is vital for correct future coastal management, so as to solve problems derived from bad plans developed in the last decades of the twentieth century. This is a valuable text for advanced graduate students and coastal researchers, which connects the specific dynamic functioning of the main Spanish coastal environments and their relationships with human activities.

Beaches in Japan have been eroding since the 1970s because of artificial land alterations and unsustainable coastal development. Almost all causes of the beach erosion in Japan are due to anthropogenic factors — as a result of human activity. This book presents the state of the beaches throughout Japan, looking at the current reality and the classification of causes of beach erosion using real-life, illustrated examples. It then goes on to look at practical models which can be used to predict changes to different types of beaches, and concludes with investigation of beach erosion as a wider structural problem. Lessons learnt show the manner in which excessive coastal development without clearly identified measures for beach protection can have widespread global ramifications.This second edition presents new findings from field studies carried out on Japanese beaches, along with the development and improvement of the numerical model presented previously. In addition to the first edition, six new examples of the beach erosion in Japan are included, as is new analysis of the BG model (a model for predicting based on Bagnold's concept), which can be applicable to various field problems.Originally published in Japanese (2004), this updated version gives clear practical guidance to coastal engineers working to prevent irreversible beach erosion and sustainable coastal development policy.

The book is organized into two parts: the first part covers (i) the precious lessons obtained from recent actual tsunami disasters including the 2004 Indian Ocean Tsunami and 2011 Great East Japan Earthquake Disaster, (ii) fundamental knowledge of tsunami for our survival, and (iii) concludes the lessons learnt and listing measures for tsunami disaster mitigation for saving human lives. The second part presents tsunami from academic perspective in two chapters: one describes tsunami occurrence mechanism and near-shore behavior; the other mentions numerical simulation and forecasting of tsunami.