This work examines the way in which the unique partnership of director (Sternberg), star (Marlene Dietrich), studio (Paramount), and designer (Travis Banton) created a series of films in which costume functions as a sign to structure each film's narrative and thematic design. Illustrated.

Explores the relationship between changes in fashion and ideas about masculinity and femininity. Among the subjects covered here are sports uniforms, work clothes, children's clothes. Many contemporary illustrations, a few in color. --

"From Olmec costume switching to Peruvian bundle burials we see which types of power were gendered, which symbols or motifs were power filled, and how these symbols were borne by the living and the dead. This collection showcases a mature gendered archaeology."--Cheryl Claassen, author of Beliefs and Rituals in Archaic Eastern North America: An Interpretive Guide Costume can reveal a wealth of information about an individual's identity within society. Dressing the Part looks at the ways individuals in the ancient Americas used clothing, hairstyle, and personal ornaments to express status and power, gender identity, and group affiliations, even from the grave. While most gender studies of pre-Columbian societies focus on women, these essays also foreground men and persons of multiple or ambiguous gender, exploring how these various identities are part of the greater fabric of social relations, political power, and religious authority. The contributors to this volume discuss how costume elements represented empowered identities, how different costumes expressed gender and power, and how elite gendered costume elements may have been appropriated by people of other genders as symbols of power. Dressing the Part examines how individual identity played a role in larger schemes of social relationship in the ancient Americas. Employing a variety of theories and methodologies from art history, anthropology, ethnography, semiotics, and material science, this volume considers not only how authority is gendered or related to gender but also how the dynamics between power and gender are negotiated through costume. Contributors: Katie McElfresh Buford | Billie J. A. Follensbee | Alice Beck Kehoe | Melissa K. Logan | Matthew G. Looper | Ann H. Peters | Kim N. Richter | Sarahh E. M. Scher | Elsa L. Tomasto-Cagigao | Laura M. Wingfield | Karon Winzenz | Cherra Wyllie

Writing against the grain of popular perception and moral panic, Pomerantz offers an intricate look at the importance of style for girls in school. Based on a year long ethnography in a Canadian high school, Pomerantz highlights style as a meaning-making practice that demands to be taken seriously.

Dressing the Man is the definitive guide to what men need to know in order to dress well and look stylish without becoming fashion victims. Alan Flusser's name is synonymous with taste and style. With his new book, he combines his encyclopedic knowledge of men's clothes with his signature wit and elegance to address the fundamental paradox of modern men's fashion: Why, after men today have spent more money on clothes than in any other period of history, are there fewer well-dressed men than at any time ever before? According to Flusser, dressing well is not all that difficult, the real challenge lies in being able to acquire the right personalized instruction. Dressing well pivots on two pillars -- proportion and color. Flusser believes that "Permanent Fashionability," both his promise and goal for the reader, starts by being accountable to a personal set of physical trademarks and not to any kind of random, seasonally served-up collection of fashion flashes. Unlike fashion, which is obliged to change each season, the face's shape, the neck's height, the shoulder's width, the arm's length, the torso's structure, and the foot's size remain fairly constant over time. Once a man learns how to adapt the fundamentals of permanent fashion to his physique and complexion, he's halfway home. Taking the reader through each major clothing classification step-by-step, this user-friendly guide helps you apply your own specifics to a series of dressing options, from business casual and formalwear to pattern-on-pattern coordination, or how to choose the most flattering clothing silhouette for your body type and shirt collar for your face. A man's physical traits represent his individual road map, and the quickest route toward forging an enduring style of dress is through exposure to the legendary practitioners of this rare masculine art. Flusser has assembled the largest andmost diverse collection of stylishly mantled men ever found in one book. Many never-before-seen vintage photographs from the era of Cary Grant, Tyrone Power, and Fred Astaire are employed to help illustrate the range and diversity of authentic men's fashion. Dressing the Man's sheer magnitude of options will enable the reader to expand both the grammar and verbiage of his permanent-fashion vocabulary. For those men hoping to find sartorial fulfillment somewhere down the road, tethering their journey to the mind-set of permanent fashion will deliver them earlier rather than later in life.

From longtime fashion director, consultant, media personality, and author, Hal Rubenstein, comes a lush, full color, illustrated guide to the most influential fashion on television from the 1950s to today, revealing the surprising ways our favorite shows have significantly reflected and often shaped the way we dress. No other medium has shaped our lives as thoroughly and consistently as television. Since its advent in the 1950s, television has served as a portal for discovering culture, initiating trends, and altering shared perceptions. Yet as Hal Rubenstein contends, television has done much more; its most dramatic, lasting, and effective influence can be found in our closets. Our most popular and lasting fashion trends and hallmarks of personal style haven’t come from runways or magazines, but from what’s on TV. For decades television has served as a personal stylist, showing us how others dress and defining what we should be wearing. From Mary Tyler Moore's capri pants on The Dick van Dyke Show and Emma Peel's dominatrix jumpsuit on The Avengers to Olivia Pope's trademark white trench on Scandal and Don Drapers' grey sharkskin suits on Mad Men Dressing the Part is a rich history of popular American fashion and culture in the modern age. In this gorgeous compendium, the longtime fashion director and expert identifies the most stylish television shows of the past 70 years, highlighting the ways they have affected and often inspired ordinary Americans’ wardrobes. Combining his decades of fashion expertise and insider knowledge with lush photographs, archival sketches, fascinating interviews with over two dozen of television’s best costume designers, commentary from showrunners and co-stars, and little-known backstories, Rubenstein reveals with insight and wit how television has shaped everyday fashion, guiding and often elevating how we dress. Illustrated with over 175 gorgeous, full-color photographs, Dressing the Part is an extraordinary survey of our most beloved shows and their most enduring impact on style, shining a spotlight on the most innate human characteristics of all—how we imitate and then adapt what we enjoy seeing on others.

Kate Dimitrova et Margaret Goehring: Introduction. --Textiles in context (David Ganz: Pictorial textiles and their performance : the star mantle of Henry II. --Warren T. Woodfin: Orthodox liturgical textiles and clerical self-referentiality. --Henry Schilb: The epitaphioi of Stephen the Great. --Christiane Elster: Liturgical textiles as papal donations in late medieval Italy. --Stefanie Seeberg: Monument in linen : a thirteenth-century embroidered catafalque cover for the members of the beata stirps of saint Elizabeth of Hungary. --Kristin Böse: Cultures re-shaped : textiles from the castilian royal tombs in Santa María de Las Huelgas in Burgos). --The represented textile as sign (Catherine Walden: "So lyvely in cullers and gilting" : vestments on episcopal tomb effigies in England. --Evelin Wetter: Material evidence, theological requirements and medial transformation : "textile strategies" in the court art of Charles IV. --Jennifer E. Courts: Weaving legitimacy : the Jouvenel des Ursins family and the construction of nobility in fifteenth-century France. --Yuko Kadoi: Textiles in the great mongol Shahnama : a new approach to ilkhanid dress).